Xizhou works best as a slow half day from Dali, or as a quiet overnight if you want the lake plain without the crowds. If you have already walked the Old Town, it is a natural next step.
It is a small town of courtyard houses and farmland, and it rewards unhurried walking more than a checklist.
What is Xizhou, and who is it for?
Xizhou is an old town on the northwest side of the Erhai plain, long associated with Bai culture. The Bai are one of the ethnic groups of Dali, known for their decorated courtyard houses and local food.
It suits return visitors, culture and architecture lovers, and anyone who prefers quiet lanes. Travellers who want nightlife or large shopping streets will find it too still.
How long do you need?
Plan three to four hours for a relaxed walk and lunch. Stay overnight if you want an unhurried evening and an early morning with the town to yourselves.
Our guide to Xizhou or Shaxi as a quiet base compares the two for overnight stays. If you are unsure whether the day is too full, try the pace checker.
How do you get there?
Fly into Kunming, then take the high-speed train to Dali. That line has run since July 2018, with about one train an hour[1].
From Dali, arrange a car or taxi for Xizhou. Erhai Lake sits at 1,972 m above sea level[2], so the air is thin enough for sun and wind to feel strong, and a hat and water help.
What should you do there?
Keep the day simple, and let the town set the pace.
- Walk the main lane and side lanes slowly, looking at gateways and courtyards.
- Visit one or two heritage houses that are open, rather than all of them.
- Sit for a meal and a drink in a courtyard.
- Cycle a short stretch of farmland if everyone is comfortable on bikes.
Carry some cash, because renminbi cash is legal tender and merchants are urged to accept it[3]. Google services and WhatsApp are blocked in mainland China[4], so save your driver’s number and hotel address offline.
Is it suitable for seniors, children and Muslim travellers?
Seniors and children manage well because the town is flat and compact. The main worries are sun, uneven paving and not enough shade at midday.
For halal food, Dali is the easier base. Weishan Yi and Hui Autonomous County borders Dali City to the north[5], and Hui restaurants avoid pork[6]. Look for the 清真 sign, ask about the kitchen and bring snacks. Our guide for Muslim travellers explains the checks.
When is another option better?
If you want a longer cultural base with more space, look at Shaxi. If you would rather stay by the lake, see Erhai Lake cycling.
Browse the attractions topic page to see how Xizhou sits among your other stops.