Hongcun and Xidi are two old Anhui villages that reward an early start and an unhurried walk. If you can pick only one, choose Hongcun for the pond and reflections, or Xidi for quieter lanes.
They are best seen on a trip that includes Huangshan, with a night nearby so you can reach them before the tour groups.
Which village suits you?
Choose by what you want from the visit.
| Village | What it feels like | Suits | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hongcun | Whitewashed houses around a pond | Photographers, couples | Crowds at midday |
| Xidi | Long stone lanes and old gateways | Culture lovers, quiet walkers | Fewer cafes and shade |
If you have the time, see both on separate half days. If you do not, Hongcun in the morning is the safer single choice.
How long should you give them?
One half day each is comfortable, and one full day for both is possible with a driver. Staying a night near the villages lets you see them in soft morning light.
The Huangshan and East China guide helps you decide whether the detour suits your route. Use the pace checker if you are already packing Shanghai and Hangzhou into the same week.
How do you get there?
From Shanghai or Hangzhou, take a high-speed train to Huangshan, then a car or taxi to the villages. The Hangzhou to Huangshan high-speed line opened on 25 December 2018 and takes about 1.5 hours[1].
Foreigners need a passport to buy train tickets and to pass platform gates[2]. Arrive 30 to 40 minutes before departure at major stations[3]. Ask your hotel to arrange the road leg to the villages in advance, because taxis can be harder to find in the evening.
When is the light best?
Early morning is the calmest, with soft light and the fewest visitors. Late afternoon is the second option, after day-trippers leave.
If rain falls, the lanes turn slick and the stone gleams, which suits photographers who carry a rain cover. Pack a light waterproof and shoes with grip.
What should you do there?
Keep the plan simple and let the light set the schedule.
- Morning: Hongcun’s pond edge, then the inner lanes.
- Midday: lunch in a courtyard or a small restaurant.
- Afternoon: Xidi’s long lanes, if you are seeing both.
- Evening: a short walk and an early night.
Carry cash as a back-up, because renminbi cash is legal tender and merchants are urged to accept it[4]. Google services and WhatsApp are blocked in mainland China[5], so save addresses and the driver’s number offline.
What about seniors and Muslim travellers?
Seniors and children manage well because the villages are flat, but cobbles are uneven and shade is limited. Keep the number of the ambulance, 120, saved[6].
Halal food needs planning in village areas. Look for the green 清真 sign and Hui-run restaurants, since the Hui avoid pork[7], and ask about the kitchen. Carry snacks, and read our guide for Muslim travellers for how the checks work in China.
How do the villages fit a bigger plan?
They pair with Huangshan and a Shanghai base, which our seven-day photography route lays out day by day. See Huangshan sunrise planning if you also want the mountain.
Browse the attractions topic page for other old towns. Tell us your dates and we can plan the light around them.